On Wed, 29 Oct 1997, Laura Burger wrote:
> I would love to try and knit my first x-mas stocking. Is there anyone out there that has an easy pattern, or know of a place on the internet to find one. Any help would greatly appreciated.
Laura and others,
I just got done making a Christmas stocking for my first DIL (BTW the wedding was August 24th and she is a sweetie!), anyway, I was wanting to make a few adjustments to the design and put together a formal set of instructions to post. The process is fairly straight forward and the stocking is BIG so you may want to reduce the number of stitches or the size of the needles.
I cast on 90 sts and worked a 2x2 rib for about 2 inches then changed to stockinette st. BTW I worked it all in the round on #7 needles using a 6oz skein of worsted wt acrylic yarn.
Work plain until the sock is about 10 inches long.
Work the heel flap on 46 sts for about 30 or 40 rows slipping the first st of each row.
Turn heel leaving about six sts at the center.
Pick up one st for every two rows along the sides of the heal flap.
Reduce by two sts every other round until there are 80 sts left.
Work even until the distance from the heel is about 6 or 8 inches.
Reduce by four sts every other round (work toe) until there are 18 sts left.
Weave toe, work in ends.
This needs some refinement. I'll try to post more detailed instructions later, but this should give you the basic idea.
Using 90 sts and #7 needles allows this to double as a "stocking cap"!
Roger C. Carlson
Project Manager - Technical Services
Cabela's, Inc.
812 13th Ave
Sidney, NE 69160
---
This pattern downloaded from Wool Works: the online knitting compendium
http://www.woolworks.org/
Friday, November 23, 2007
SOCK PATTERN
ANOTHER SOCK PATTERN
This pattern started out life as the Patons Ragg Wool Sock pattern, but after making mucho pairs for family, I have changed it beyond recognition. I found the original to be too loose and sloppy.
Be warned, I do not use inches but count rows, but I will try to include required number of inches.
And as with all the patterns I share, remember these words:
I am passing this pattern to you as a favour. I do not expect anything in return except for you to remember me when someday, someone else may need something from you, and you can pass on the favour to them.
Arlene's Chunky Weight Socks
2 balls Chunky weight yarn (100 gm balls)
4.5 dpn's
4.0 dpn's
Leg
Cast on 44 sts on 4.5 needles. Join in round, being careful not to twist the stitches. Work 5 rows in K1, P1 rib.
Work 25 rows in K3, P1 rib. This should bring you to 5 inches total. If you like a longer sock leg, work in K3, P1 rib until 1 inch before starting the heel.
Change to 4.0 needles and knit 6 rows or 1 inch.
Heel
Slip last 11 sts of the last round and the first 11 sts of the next round onto 1 needle for the heel, leaving 22 sts on 2 needles for the instep.
With wrong side of work facing, proceed as follows:
Row 1: K1, P4, P2 tog, P3, P2 tog, P3, P2 tog, P4, K1. (19 sts.)
Row 2: *K1, Slip 1. Repeat from * to last st. K1.
Row 3: K1, purl to last st, K1.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until a total of 19 rows have been worked, including row 1.
Next row: K8, K2 tog, K9. (18 sts).
Shape Heel
Row 1: P10, P2 tog, P1, turn.
Row 2: K4, Slip 1, K1, psso, K1, turn.
Row 3: P5, P2 tog, P1, turn.
Row 4: K6, Slip 1, K1, psso, K1, turn.
Row 5: P7, P2 tog, P1, turn.
Row 6: K8, Slip 1, K1, psso, K1, turn.
Row 7: P9, P2 tog.
Row 8: K9, K2 tog. (10 sts.)
With right side of work facing, pick up and knit 11 sts along the side of the heel (the little bumps along the edge). Knit into the back of the picked up sts as this will twist them and less likely to make holes.
You should now have one more bump/stitch to pick-up before the instep. Pick-up this stitch, and then make one st in the space before the instep; knit these 2 sts tog. This helps to prevent a hole.
Knit across the 22 st for the instep.
Make a stitch between the instep and the first bump of the heel, and then pick-up the first bump; knit these 2 sts tog. Pick-up and knit 11 sts another sts along the side of the heel, remembering to knit into the back of the picked up sts. Knit the next 5 sts, and slip the nest 5 sts of the heel onto the first needle. The 56 sts are now divided as follows:
Needle 1: 17 sts
Needle 2: 22 sts
Needle 3: 17 sts
You have just completed the hardest part of the sock. Congratulations!!
Proceed as follows:
Row 1:
1st needle: Knit to last 3 sts, K2 tog, K1.
2nd needle: Knit across.
3rd needle: K1, Slip 1, K1, psso, knit to the end of the needle.
Row 2: Knit around.
Row 3: Knit around.
Repeat rows 1 to 3 until 40 sts divided as 9, 22, 9 on the 3 needles.
Continue even for a total of 40 rows from the picked up sts at the heel.
I wear a ladies size 8 1/2 shoe, so the 40 rows fits me. Work the foot for yourself until 1 1/2 inches are left for the toes.
Shape Toes
Row 1:
1st needle: Knit to the last 3 sts, K2 tog, K1.
2nd needle: K1, Slip 1, K1, psso, (K2, K2 tog) 4 times, K2 tog, K1.
3rd needle: K1, Slip 1, K1, psso, knit to the end of the needle.
Work 3 rounds even.
Row 5:
1st needle: Knit to the last 3 sts, K2 tog, K1.
2nd needle: K1, Slip 1, K1, psso, knit to the last 3 sts, K2 tog, K1.
3rd needle: K1, Slip 1, K1, psso, knit to the end of the needle.
Repeat last 4 rows until 20 sts are left. Knit across needle 1. Cut yarn,
leaving a 12 inch length for grafting. Graft toe.
Toe Grafting
Grafting sounds more complicated than it really is. You are joining two rows together with a knit and purl motion. The trickiest part is not to pull the yarn too tight, and not too leave it too loose.
Place the 20 sts on 2 needles, 10 sts on each needle.
Thread the yarn thru a darning needle.
Stitch 19 17 15 13 11 9 7 5 3 1 Needle A
Stitch 20 18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 Needle B
The diagram shows the two needles side be side, each with 10 sts.
1. Run the thread thru st 1 as if to purl; drop st 1 off needle A.
2. Run the thread thru st 3 as if to knit. Leave st 3 on needle A.
3. Run the thread thru st 2 as if to knit; drop st 2 off needle B.
4. Run the thread thru st 4 as if to purl. Leave st 4 on needle B.
5. Run the thread thru st 3 as if to purl; drop st 3 off needle A.
6. Run the thread thru st 5 as if to knit. Leave st 5 on needle A.
7. Run the thread thru st 4 as if to knit; drop st 4 off needle B.
8. Run the thread thru st 6 as if to purl. Leave st 6 on needle B.
Repeat steps 5 thru 8 until all sts have been grafted. Darn end in.
[...]
Arlene in Toronto
quanah@user.rose.com
Never meet trouble halfway. Let it travel the full distance. Something usually happens to it before it arrives.
---
This pattern downloaded from Wool Works: the online knitting compendium
http://www.woolworks.org/
This pattern started out life as the Patons Ragg Wool Sock pattern, but after making mucho pairs for family, I have changed it beyond recognition. I found the original to be too loose and sloppy.
Be warned, I do not use inches but count rows, but I will try to include required number of inches.
And as with all the patterns I share, remember these words:
I am passing this pattern to you as a favour. I do not expect anything in return except for you to remember me when someday, someone else may need something from you, and you can pass on the favour to them.
Arlene's Chunky Weight Socks
2 balls Chunky weight yarn (100 gm balls)
4.5 dpn's
4.0 dpn's
Leg
Cast on 44 sts on 4.5 needles. Join in round, being careful not to twist the stitches. Work 5 rows in K1, P1 rib.
Work 25 rows in K3, P1 rib. This should bring you to 5 inches total. If you like a longer sock leg, work in K3, P1 rib until 1 inch before starting the heel.
Change to 4.0 needles and knit 6 rows or 1 inch.
Heel
Slip last 11 sts of the last round and the first 11 sts of the next round onto 1 needle for the heel, leaving 22 sts on 2 needles for the instep.
With wrong side of work facing, proceed as follows:
Row 1: K1, P4, P2 tog, P3, P2 tog, P3, P2 tog, P4, K1. (19 sts.)
Row 2: *K1, Slip 1. Repeat from * to last st. K1.
Row 3: K1, purl to last st, K1.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until a total of 19 rows have been worked, including row 1.
Next row: K8, K2 tog, K9. (18 sts).
Shape Heel
Row 1: P10, P2 tog, P1, turn.
Row 2: K4, Slip 1, K1, psso, K1, turn.
Row 3: P5, P2 tog, P1, turn.
Row 4: K6, Slip 1, K1, psso, K1, turn.
Row 5: P7, P2 tog, P1, turn.
Row 6: K8, Slip 1, K1, psso, K1, turn.
Row 7: P9, P2 tog.
Row 8: K9, K2 tog. (10 sts.)
With right side of work facing, pick up and knit 11 sts along the side of the heel (the little bumps along the edge). Knit into the back of the picked up sts as this will twist them and less likely to make holes.
You should now have one more bump/stitch to pick-up before the instep. Pick-up this stitch, and then make one st in the space before the instep; knit these 2 sts tog. This helps to prevent a hole.
Knit across the 22 st for the instep.
Make a stitch between the instep and the first bump of the heel, and then pick-up the first bump; knit these 2 sts tog. Pick-up and knit 11 sts another sts along the side of the heel, remembering to knit into the back of the picked up sts. Knit the next 5 sts, and slip the nest 5 sts of the heel onto the first needle. The 56 sts are now divided as follows:
Needle 1: 17 sts
Needle 2: 22 sts
Needle 3: 17 sts
You have just completed the hardest part of the sock. Congratulations!!
Proceed as follows:
Row 1:
1st needle: Knit to last 3 sts, K2 tog, K1.
2nd needle: Knit across.
3rd needle: K1, Slip 1, K1, psso, knit to the end of the needle.
Row 2: Knit around.
Row 3: Knit around.
Repeat rows 1 to 3 until 40 sts divided as 9, 22, 9 on the 3 needles.
Continue even for a total of 40 rows from the picked up sts at the heel.
I wear a ladies size 8 1/2 shoe, so the 40 rows fits me. Work the foot for yourself until 1 1/2 inches are left for the toes.
Shape Toes
Row 1:
1st needle: Knit to the last 3 sts, K2 tog, K1.
2nd needle: K1, Slip 1, K1, psso, (K2, K2 tog) 4 times, K2 tog, K1.
3rd needle: K1, Slip 1, K1, psso, knit to the end of the needle.
Work 3 rounds even.
Row 5:
1st needle: Knit to the last 3 sts, K2 tog, K1.
2nd needle: K1, Slip 1, K1, psso, knit to the last 3 sts, K2 tog, K1.
3rd needle: K1, Slip 1, K1, psso, knit to the end of the needle.
Repeat last 4 rows until 20 sts are left. Knit across needle 1. Cut yarn,
leaving a 12 inch length for grafting. Graft toe.
Toe Grafting
Grafting sounds more complicated than it really is. You are joining two rows together with a knit and purl motion. The trickiest part is not to pull the yarn too tight, and not too leave it too loose.
Place the 20 sts on 2 needles, 10 sts on each needle.
Thread the yarn thru a darning needle.
Stitch 19 17 15 13 11 9 7 5 3 1 Needle A
Stitch 20 18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 Needle B
The diagram shows the two needles side be side, each with 10 sts.
1. Run the thread thru st 1 as if to purl; drop st 1 off needle A.
2. Run the thread thru st 3 as if to knit. Leave st 3 on needle A.
3. Run the thread thru st 2 as if to knit; drop st 2 off needle B.
4. Run the thread thru st 4 as if to purl. Leave st 4 on needle B.
5. Run the thread thru st 3 as if to purl; drop st 3 off needle A.
6. Run the thread thru st 5 as if to knit. Leave st 5 on needle A.
7. Run the thread thru st 4 as if to knit; drop st 4 off needle B.
8. Run the thread thru st 6 as if to purl. Leave st 6 on needle B.
Repeat steps 5 thru 8 until all sts have been grafted. Darn end in.
[...]
Arlene in Toronto
quanah@user.rose.com
Never meet trouble halfway. Let it travel the full distance. Something usually happens to it before it arrives.
---
This pattern downloaded from Wool Works: the online knitting compendium
http://www.woolworks.org/
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